Mera Peak Climbing
is moderately challenging, and for the
beginners who is attempting for the first time, Mera
Peak Climbing offers a thrilling opportunity to try some
Himalayan rock and ice. The climb is not too technical
except you will need good adaptation to altitude and
some basic experience with climbing equipment, including
ice axe and crampons.
As usual, to gain successful ascent, we head up slowly
and plenty of time during the trek up to base camp allow
us to be properly acclimatized. After the summit, the
trail will follow crossing Mingbo La or Tashi Lapcha
down to Everest classic route at Chhokung and we
conclude this memorable journey at Lukla.
About 700 foreign visitors climb the 6654m. Mera peak
each year, an achievement which requires mountaineering
skills and a special permit from the Nepal
Mountaineering Association.
The altitude of Mera Peak is 6654m. Above sea level,
Mera peak was an almost overlooked mountain to the east
of the main Khumbu trekking trails. It is situated in
the Everest region in a remote valley, Mera peak is a
non technical mountain. It is suitable for anyone of
average or above average fitness wishing to fulfil the
dream of a high Himalayan summit or those with a
yearning for adventure. When you stand upon the summit,
spread before you will be an unbelievable panorama of
peaks such as Mt. Everest, Makalu & hundreds of other
beautiful mountains.
We follow the original
Everest expedition route at the
trail head from Jiri, cross spectacular gorges and visit
the Peak before
entering Sherpa regions of Solu Khumbu, the wilderness
of Hinku Valley. This is a fascinating trek in itself.
Ample time for acclimation is allowed en route to our
base camp on the Mera La (Pass). The return to Kathmandu
is easy for your plane will get back to the wonderful
Sherpa areas and the gigantic Himalayas.
Key Information:
Tour
Duration: 1 - 21 day(s) Group Size: 2 - 12 people Destination's: Nepal
Specialty Categories: Ice Climbing
Mountain/Rock Climbing Season: March - June, September - October
Airfare Included: No Tour Customizable: No
Option Route:
North Face Glacier from the Mera La The base camp can be set up at 5415m near Mera
La on the Hongu side in the moraine below the
ice. From here a high camp is set at 5,800m near
a rocky outcrop on the Mera Glacier. The high
camp proves to be one to the most glorious
viewpoints in Nepal offering the panoramic views
of Kanchanjunga, Chamlang, Makalu and Baruntse
sweeping around from the east and Amadablam, Cho
Oyu and Kangtega to the west. The giant faces of
Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse appear in the north.
There are three main summits which are climbable
without much difficulty. The south summit
(6,065m) is the most accessible with the
Northern Summit (6,654m), the highest, which can
be reached by skirting the Central Summit
(6,461m) to the north and following snow ridge
to its top. Climbing the middle summit requires
ascent up on steep snow and is more technical.
Mera North is straightforward to climb.
Alternate Trek Routes To/From Mera peak
Mingbo La pass to Everest Base Camp:
Return through the upper Hongu valley and over
Mingbo La pass into the Imja valley on the
Everest Base Camp
Trek route. From here a visit can
be made to Everest Base camp and return to Lukla.
This is a very high altitude trek through
glaciated valleys with possibilities of being
stranded in adverse weather condition. Only
strong, well equipped, groups should attempt
this route. Please let us know if you want to
use this route to exit.
Amphu Laptsa pass to Everest Base Camp:
Return trek through the upper Hongu valley and
then over the high pass of Amphu Laptsa to come
out at Chukung in the upper Imja river valley
near Island Peak. From here a visit can be made
to Everest Base camp and return to Lukla. This
is a very high altitude trek through glaciated
valleys with possibilities of being stranded in
adverse weather condition. Only strong, well
equipped, groups should attempt this route.
Please let us know if you want to use this route
to exit.
Mera Peak Climbing Equipments.
The following equipment lists are suggested and
essential for both camp & teahouse treks in the
Himalayas. Make use of this list as a guideline; some of
the equipment can be hired in Katmandu as well. Besides,
keep in mind trekking gear can be bought in the many
adventure shops in Katmandu, the majority of gear is
locally manufactured (hence
a lot cheaper) although it is becoming more
common for gear to be imported from China and therefore
of better quality.
Equipments checklists For
Mera Peak climbing.
In addition to the above list of suggested trekking
equipment, you should take along with various items of
mountaineering tools. For any trip which has crossed by
steep, snow-covered ground, or which has included
section of glacier travel, it might be necessary for the
group roping up as a safety precaution. To facilitate
this process of roping up, you will need to maintain a
minimum requirement, a climbing harness, a climbing
sling and two locking carabineers. Plastic
mountaineering boots, a mountaineering ice axe and a
pair of crampons with front points are the other items
of equipment, which are required for our trekking peak
trips. (Please note: Our recommendation that you take no
more than 33 pounds of trekking equipment DOES NOT
include your plastic boots, ice axe, crampons or
harness/carabineers. During the trek, climbing hardware
will be carried separately from your personal trek bag
in-group bags until needed).
An explanation of the equipment that you will need
Daypacks for climbing trips 3000-4000 cubic inches. For climbing trips, you will be
required to carry more warm clothing during the climbs
and also your personal climbing gear. For this reason,
you will need a slightly bigger daypack than for a
trekking-only trip. If you have any questions about
gear, please do not hesitate to call our office for
advice.
Equipment Rental In order to minimize your expense outlay for trekking
and climbing equipment you may never use again, we offer
a wide range of equipment available for rent for the
duration of your trip. All rental equipment can be
picked up from your trip leader upon arrival for your
trip
Mera Peak Climbing Itinerary.
Day
1: Arrive in Kathmandu
Airport transfer, free-and-easy at Thamel;
distribution of trekking equipment. The evening
will be highlighted by a traditional Nepali
cuisine as a perfect end of your very arrival
day in the Himalayan Kingdom of Nepal.
Day 2: Flight to Lukla (2860m) Trek to
Phuiyan (2796m) walk 4-5 hrs. Flight to Lukla where the airstrip at Lukla was
built by Sir Edmund Hillary and his friend; Our
Expedition route to Mera to the south is a
welcome escape from the crowded trail to
traditional Everest Base Camp. After having
lunch at Surkhe you will pass through many
traditional villages to reach to the vicinity of
Phuiyan for our first night camp.
Day 3: Trek to Pangkogma (2846m) walk approx. 06
hrs After a short walk from Phuiyan our trail breaks
away, leaving the main route to Namche Bazzar
and head east into the mountains, following the
old trading route linking the Everest region to
the Arun valley.
Day 4: Trek to Narjing Dingma (2690m) walk
approx. 06 hrs In the cool of the morning we head up towards
the Pangkongma La pass (3140m) behind the
village, marked by some very ancient looking
Chortens. Once we entered the Hinku valley,
immediately there is a feel of unspoilt
remoteness.
Day 5: Trek to Chalen Kharka (3440m) walk approx
05 – 06 hrs The forests continue as we ascend, now mainly
rhododendron. From the Surkie La (3,085m) we
head north along the ridge, and the whole of
eastern Nepal opens out in front of us, over the
wildly remote Honku valley.
Day 6: Trek to Khola Kharka (4120m) walk approx
06 hrs From here up the ridge is cragged with lichen
rocks and heathers, and we wind our way up over
several rises. The ridge narrows as dramatic
gullies drop away steeply on either side. Over a
final crest (4,330m) we reach the unexpected
suspended ledge of the lakes of Panch Pokhari -
five lakes, the sacred number.
Day 7: Trek to Kote (3490m) walk approx. 06 hrs An excellent trekking day, walk through the
dwarf juniper; rhododendron and lovely mixed
firs will add the beauty in your trip. Enjoy the
great view of Mera and Hinku valley before we
descend steeply to the phenomenal cascading
junction of two mountain torrents, crashing down
through tall pine forests all around our lunch
site.
Day 8: Trek to Tangnang (4140m) walk approx 5- 6
hrs The forest gives way to open valley again by
mid-morning, revealing the peaks which line
either side. A small Buddhist Gompa in the rock
wall above the path contains some unexpectedly
fine Buddha statues within. The valley swings
eastward into a new array of peaks and the route
up toward the Mera glacier comes into view.
Day 9: Climbing Clinic / Acclimatisation Day This acclimatisation day is very important and
useful for boosting yours adaptation to the
altitude by gaining as much height as we can
during the day but returning to Tangnang for the
night.
Day 10: Trek to Khare / Mera Base Camp (4940m),
walk approx. 4-5 hrs This morning’s walk up alongside the Dig glacier
is easy and relaxed. This is an excellent valley
opening out views to the north of the Hinku Nup
glacier and the line of peaks beyond. Behind us
is the dramatic spire of the less than
romantically named ‘Peak 35’, which has yet to
be climbed.
Day 11: Acclimatisation day /Ridge ascent from
Hinku Nup Today we gain more valuable acclimatisation and
pick up some stunning views as well. Following
the lateral moraine of the Hinku Nup glacier
into an arena of peaks and glacial lakes, we
turn to ascend a grassy ridge that rises back to
the south. .
Day 12: Climbing Clinic Ascending the steep edge of the glacier is an
ideal to practice crampon use and ice axe
technique, and to get the feel of jumaring on a
fixed rope. On top we find a suitable area with
a safe run-out to learn self-arrest, the single
most important skill of alpine mountaineering,
even if little needed on the safe slopes of Mera.
Day 13: Trek to High Camp. Walk approx. 5-6 hrs We return to the glacier, and this time follow
it round in a wide arc, keeping close under the
nrthern flank where there are no crevasses. The
last section is almost level and Mera La
(5,410m) itself is a rounded snow col that
bridges south to the main sweep of the Mera
glacier coming down from the peak itself.
Day 14: Summit the Mera Peak and back to Khare.
Walk approx. 08 hrs This is the most important and toughest day in
any mountaineering trip as you will be awakened
before the dawn with the high esteem to summit
the peak. After the steaming hot tea and a quick
breaky we continue all roped up through the main
glacier then crossing back to the south side we
approach the snow humpback ridge. The first
shafts of the sun hit the big peaks behind us
and are soon on our own slopes, an amazing
horizontal red glow. The route is still
non-technical; 30º slopes, one foot in front of
the other, count the steps and take a breather.
Day 15: Spare Day for Summit The weather condition in the Himalayas is
unpredictable so this spare day enables us to be
flexible with the program depending upon the
weather condition or other problems.
Day 16: Trek to Kote, walk approx 06 hrs We retrace our trail back to Kote and camp by
the river after this life long journey to Mera
Peak and enjoy the celebration party.
Day 17: Trek to Cetera (4190m) walk approx 06
hrs We follow another new route back to Lukla that
stays high on the open hillsides west of the
Hinku River, rather than winding through the
previous one. This makes for a quicker return
with some fantastic views back of Mera herself
from a completely different angle.
Day 18: Trek to Lukla walk approx 07 hrs The trail goes over a series of rises and high
plateau till the windy craggy Zatrawa La
(4,580m), the gateway to the Dudh Kosi valley
and the trail to Lukla, from where we look back
on the Hinku wilderness for the last time and
the south face of the peak we have just climbed.
Day 19: Fly back to Kathmandu This morning, we have a flight from Lukla to
Kathmandu; it is a thrilling exciting flight
over forests, fields and villages with the
Himalayas at the background. On arrival, we
transfer to the hotel. The remainder of the day
is at leisure.
Day 20: In Kathmandu: There are lots of interesting thing to see in
Kathmandu valley: the Royal Palace, Durbar
Squares, Swayambhunath (the monkey temple),
Pashupatinath, Buddhist Stupa at Baudhnath,
Patan and an ancient city Bhakatpur etc. Or you
may explore down town to shop for souvenirs,
getting your photos or slides processed and
trying out the various restaurants in Thamel.
Day 21: Departure/Trip Concludes: It is time to fly back to home keeping all the
exhilarating experiences of Nepal in mind.
Cost Include.
Airport pickup and drop
Welcome/farewell dinner
Hotel accommodation in KTM
Meals as mentioned
Tent stay on trek
Conservation permit
Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu flight
Royalty of Mera peak
Equipment of climbing guide
Insured-equipped guide
Insured-equipped trekking crew
Cost Exclude.
Personal climbing equipment
Meals other than mentioned
Drinks and bar Bill
Tipping
Personal insurance
Airport departure tax (USD 23)
Domestic airport tax (USD 7)
Emergency Rescue
Other things not mentioned
Note: Minimum 4 person in a group, if just 1 or
2 person price will be revised. This trip
involves walking of 4-6 hours per day and covers
an altitude ranging from MIN 1300 Mtr. to MAX
6465 mtr.
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