Island peak climbing, one
of the most popular trekking peak climbing in
Nepal. Eric Shipton's party of 1952 named the
mountain Island Peak. In 1983 it was renamed
Imja Tse, but even the locals still call it
Island Peak. The mountain was first climbed in
1953 by a team in preparation for the ascent of
Everest. You Should climb island peak under the
Nepal government rule and regulation.
The name
Island Peak was given to the mountain in 1952 by Eric Shipton's party who were on their way to explore the
Barun Gorge. Seen from above Dingboche the mountain does
indeed resemble an island in a sea of ice. In 1983 it
was renamed Imja Tse, although for most people the
descriptive name of Island Peak seems to have been
retained.
The mountain was first climbed in 1953 by a very
prestigious team in preparation for the ascent of
Everest. They were Charles Evans, Alf Gregory, Charles
Wylie and Tenzing Norgay, with seven Sherpas who were
trying out the new fangled oxygen sets; as practice, of
course, for loftier things. Fortunately this didn't set
a precedent and most people seem able to climb it
without bottled air, although a Sherpa
Island Peak Climbing is a great first Himalayan experience that
includes glacier travel, moderate snow and ice climbing
while ascending 20,000+ foot mountain. Nepal is a
country of friendly people, magnificent scenery, and a
variety of cultural traditions. This blend of outdoor
adventure and cultural exploration is a great way to
experience the Himalayan Mountains - the world’s most
impressive mountain range - and is sure to create
lasting memories and provide you with a satisfying sense
of accomplishment.
After arriving, you will have a day to explore the
exotic city of Kathmandu before flying into the remote
mountain town of Lukla where you begin your trek into
the Khumbu region of the Himalayas. Situated at an
elevation of 9,350 feet, the views of the Himalayan
Mountains from Lukla on a clear day are breathtaking.
Once there, we follow an ancient route that journeys
through tiny villages, across high mountain passes, and
through remote valleys. Along the way, we visit Buddhist
monasteries and begin to appreciate the unique mountain
culture found in the Himalayan foothills. The views grow
more spectacular as we venture up the Dudh Kosi River to
Namche Bazaar - the gateway to the Khumbu region at
11,300 feet. We spend a night next to the Thyangboche
monastery (12,887 feet), where you are rewarded with
spectacular views of Ama Dablam, Mt. Everest, and Lhotse.
A rewarding hike leads to the summit of 18,450 foot Kala
Pattar and provides a truly spectacular panorama of
Sagarmatha (Mt Everest), the Mother Goddess of the World
(29,028 feet), and Lhotse (27,560 feet). We then spend
about two nights at Everest Base camp with the Everest
climbing expeditions from around the world.
Key Information:
Country : Nepal
Activities : Trekking & Climbing.
Start/End: Kathmandu
Destination : Island Peak Summit.
Trip Duration : 17 Days.
Max. Altitude : 6187meters.
Group Size : Min. 1 / Max.12.
Best Season : March to May and October, November.
Trip Grade :*****
Daily working Hour: Approximately 4-7
Minimum Per Person Price: 2000 US Dollar (USD)
Maximum Per Person Price: 1800 US Dollar (USD)
Island Peak Climbing Equipments.
The following equipment lists are suggested and
essential for both camp & teahouse treks in the
Himalayas. Make use of this list as a guideline; some of
the equipment can be hired in Katmandu as well. Besides,
keep in mind trekking gear can be bought in the many
adventure shops in Katmandu, the majority of gear is
locally manufactured (hence
a lot cheaper) although it is becoming more
common for gear to be imported from China and therefore
of better quality.
Equipments checklists - climbing trips
In addition to the above list of suggested trekking
equipment, you should take along with various items of
mountaineering tools. For any trip which has crossed by
steep, snow-covered ground, or which has included
section of glacier travel, it might be necessary for the
group roping up as a safety precaution. To facilitate
this process of roping up, you will need to maintain a
minimum requirement, a climbing harness, a climbing
sling and two locking carabineers. Plastic
mountaineering boots, a mountaineering ice axe and a
pair of crampons with front points are the other items
of equipment, which are required for our trekking peak
trips. (Please note: Our recommendation that you take no
more than 33 pounds of trekking equipment DOES NOT
include your plastic boots, ice axe, crampons or
harness/carabineers. During the trek, climbing hardware
will be carried separately from your personal trek bag
in-group bags until needed).
An explanation of the equipment that you will need
Daypacks for climbing trips
3000-4000 cubic inches. For climbing trips, you will be
required to carry more warm clothing during the climbs
and also your personal climbing gear. For this reason,
you will need a slightly bigger daypack than for a
trekking-only trip. If you have any questions about
gear, please do not hesitate to call our office for
advice.
Equipment Rental
In order to minimize your expense outlay for trekking
and climbing equipment you may never use again, we offer
a wide range of equipment available for rent for the
duration of your trip. All rental equipment can be
picked up from your trip leader upon arrival for your
trip
Island Peak Climbing Itinerary.
Day 1: Fly
to Lukla, trek to Phakding.
Fly to Lukla. Start trek setting off for a gentle walk
to Phakding (2800m), a further 3 hours to the north. The
trail leads through Lukla, past hotels, shops and
airline offices to the edge of the Lukla plateau where
the trail drops to meet the intersection of the Jiri
trail at Chablung. From here the trail follows the Dudh
Kosi north through the village of Ghat and then finally
to Phakding for the overnight stay.
Day 2: Phakding - Namche Bazaar.
The trail heads beside the Dudh Kosi and continues
upstream along the banks to the confluence of the Bhote
Kosi and Dudh Kosi. After crossing the large suspension
bridge, the trail starts ascending through pine tree
forests to reach the distinctive horse-shoe shaped bowl
village of Namche Bazar where you stop for your
overnight. There are fantastic photographic
opportunities on the way as the peaks of Everest
(8848m), Lhotse (8511m), Nuptse (7879m), Arna Dablam
(6856m) and Taweche (6542m) come into view for the first
time.
Day 3: Rest day in Namche Bazaar.
Rest day for acclimatization at Namche Bazaar. As the
name suggest, Namche is famous for its local market or
bazaar. Rising early, those who climb to the ridge above
Namche will be rewarded with the stunning dawn and
sunrise over the panorama of the Khumbu peaks. The day
can be spent exploring this colorful village or walk
along the Thami Valley in the afternoon or visit the
National Park Headquarters to see the interesting
displays of Sherpa lifestyle and culture, mountaineering
in the park, flora and fauna.
Day 4: Namche Bazaar to Phortse Thanga.
From Namche the trail leads north-east on a direct line
to Everest, starting up the hill to the Visitor Centre
and continuing on a reasonably flat easy trail high
above the Dudh Kosi. Ahead one can see one of the most
beautiful mountains in the Khumbu - Ama Dablam (6856m),
as well as Everest still far off in the distance. At
Sanasa we branch off the Everest trail and head up the
hill to the small settlement of Mong. From here it is a
steady descent to the Dudh Kosi at Phortse Thanga
(3500m) for the overnight stay.
Day 5: Phortse Thanga to Dole.
From the river the trail initially climbs steeply out of
the valley through rhododendron forest and then
continues high above the Dudh Kosi, steadily gaining
height. The trail passes through the settlements of
Tongba (3950m) and Gyele (3960m) and eventually reach
our camp site for the evening at Dole (4200m) for the
overnight stay. All through the day one can have
fantastic views of the surrounding mountains.
Day 6: Dole to Machhermo.
From Dole the trail continues high above the west bank
of the Dudh Kosi and one can obtain tremendous views of
the mountains at the northern end of the valley,
including Cho Oyu, as well as back down the valley to
Ama Dablam, and across the valley to Tawachee and
Cholatse. Machhermo our overnight stay at 4410m is a
pleasant camp site with several tea-houses.
Day 7: Machhermo to Gokyo.
Beyond Machhermo the valley widens and the trail passes
through the settlement of Pangka before descending to
the river. From here it is a steep ascent up the
terminal moraine of the Ngozumpa glacier to the first of
the Gokyo lakes at 4650m. The trail then levels off and
passes the second lake at 4690m, eventually making it's
way to Gokyo at 4750m for the overnight stay.
Day 8: Climb Gokyo Ri, trek to Chhugyuma.
The trail ascends to the top of Gokyo Ri at 5350m, for
magnificent views of Everest to the east and Cho Oyu to
the north. The trail then retraces to the area between
the first and second lakes and takes a trail eastwards
across the Ngozumpa glacier to reach Dragnag. From here
the trail continues upwards for the overnight stay at
Chhugyuma at approx. 5000m.
Day 9: Cross Cho La to Dzongla.
The trail continues upwards towards the pass that links
the Gokyo and Everest valleys - the Cho La. It is then
about 3-4 hours of slow walking to the pass at 5420m
offering fabulous views on both sides of the pass. From
the pass the trail descends slowly on a rough trail to
the small settlement of Dzongla for the overnight stay.
Day 10: Dzongla to Chhukung.
From Dzongla the trail descends steadily to the main
Everest trail at Duglha, and continues to descend to the
ridge above Dingboche for the first view of Island Peak
as it dominates the end of the Imja valley to the east.
The trail then continues up the Imja valley to Chhukung
at 4730m for the overnight stay.
Day 11: Chhukung to Island Peak Base Camp, then on to
High Camp.
From Chhukung the trail follows the moraine of the
Lhotse glacier to the snout of the Imja glacier where it
branches to the east and skirts around the base of
Island Peak. The main camp is made at a spot known as
Pareshaya Gyab at 5087m. After taking lunch and resting
we continue up to our high camp, a further hour or so up
the mountain. The trail is well defined until the area
of our high camp at approx. 5500m.
Day 12: Ascent of Island Peak and return to Base Camp.
Set off early for the summit at about 3.00 am, and
scramble up in the dark to the snow-covered glacier
above. From here the trail leads up the glacier until a
broad snow basin which leads up to the final section of
the climb. Ahead is the main summit ridge and we climb a
steep snow and ice slope, using fixed ropes, for approx.
100m to access the ridge. The ridge is a classic and
leads quickly to the east up to the main summit at
6189m. From the summit there are fantastic views across
to Lhotse to the north, the Amphu Labsta and Mera Peak
to the south, and Ama Dablam to the west. Return back to
the Base Camp.
Day 13: Spare Day.
A spare 'buffer' day is allowed in case of bad weather.
Day 14: Island Peak Base Camp to Dingboche.
The trail leads back down the Imja valley, firstly to
Chhukung and on to Dingboche for the overnight stay.
Day 15: Dingboche to Namche Bazaar.
From Dingboche the trail heads down the main Everest
trail, passing through the settlement of Pangboche,
before reaching the famous Tengboche monastery. Visit
the monastery before continuing on to Namche Bazaar.
From Tengboche the trail drops steeply to the river at
Phunki Thanga, and then rises again to traverse high
above the river on a winding trail into Namche Bazaar.
Day 16: Namche Bazaar to Lukla.
The trail starts by descending steeply out of Namche and
shortly before we cross the suspension bridge below
Namche we get a last chance to see Everest before it is
out of sight until the next time. Lunch at Phakding to
arrive in Lukla by mid-afternoon.
Day 17: Lukla to Kathmandu.
Fly back to Kathmandu and transfer to the hotel.
Cost Include.
All meals
and best available lodge accommodation
during the trek
Climbing permit and Sagarmatha National Park fee
Service of trek guide & assistant
Climbing guide, his wage and equipment allowance
Porterage charge to and from base camp
Accident insurance for staffs and porters
Domestic Airfare according to programme
Arrival and departure transfers
Cost Exclude.
Personal
clothing, climbing equipment and sleeping
bag
International Airfare
Personal accident and health insurance
Emergency evacuation and oxygen cost, and medical-box
Alcoholic and bottled beverage, laundry, and tips
Hotel accommodation, sightseeing and meals in
Katmandu (allow US$ 15 per night for hotel)
Any other services and expenses that are not
specifically mentioned in the programme
Expenses due to flight delay, sickness and other
contingencies
Note: Minimum 4 person in a group, if just 1 or
2 person price will be revised. This trip
involves walking of 4-6 hours per day and covers
an altitude ranging from MIN 1300 Mtr. to MAX
6465 mtr.
Affiliated Agency
Island Peak Climbing.
Located on top of the Chukung glacier between Ama Dablam
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Island Peak
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The normal route
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Island Peak Climbing.
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Island peak, one of
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Island Peak was the name given to the mountain in
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