Mountaineering Expeditions in Nepal

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Expedition in Nepal
Expedition in Nepal

History of Expedition in Nepal

Mountaineering Expeditions in Nepal, If you want to climb a Himalayan summit there are many peaks in Nepal offering a wide range of mountaineering objectives. We offer an expedition support and guiding service with fixed date departures and as well as private groups on a bespoke basis.  The expedition team is required to pay the full amount of the climbing permit fee within two months of the date of permission and the permit fee must be paid directly in favor of the Ministry of culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation, Mountaineering section, via any Nepal government registered company.

Nepal has become a great theatre of adventure expedition activity and the drama of success and failure have provided impetus to thousands of men and women to meet the ultimate challenge. The Nepal Himalayan has been an attraction to many people, be they saints, philosophers, researchers or adventures. Due to the mountainous terrain this expedition to Nepal is very much a trekking-based expedition that is ideal for teams looking for a physical challenge.

Expedition in Nepal is another prime tourism activity proving Nepal the cradle for mountaineers for ages. Nepal is famous for its high Himalayan adventure mountains where the world’s highest mountain, Mount Everest (8,848m) can be found, looking majestic from the north. The Himalayas attract world tourists and mountaineers for the whole year round. Nepal is possibly the only country in the world where you can climb the highest mountains in the world. Trek in the beautiful countryside with the frozen peaks always in the background as well as enjoying jungle safaris and other adventure tours. Eight of the world’s 14 peaks over 8,000m, including Mount Everest (8,848m), Kanchenjunga (8,586m), Lhotse (8,516m), Makalu (8,463m), Dhaulagiri (8,167m), Manaslu (8,163m) Annapurna (8,091m) are located in Nepal. Please visit some of the expedition companies in Nepal


Mountaineering Expeditions in Nepal. This category is similar to challenging treks on the mountain above 7000m, however, includes basic mountaineering above the snow line using ice axe, crampons ropes and necessary climbing gears under the supervision and instruction from the climbing leader/guide. People wanting to do this type of expedition needs psychological and physical stamina plus prior experience is certainly an advantage, but not essential. Minimum 30 days required for the trekking and mountaineering. We have some Himalayas day by day programs. Please write us of your requirements and we shall forward to you more detail with approximately cost.

The royalty and size of the expedition team :Rules effective from 1996 spring Ascent route of Everest:

(1) South east ridge normal route Royalty of US$ 70,000 has been fixed for Sagarmatha (Everest) for a team consisting of 7 members. The team may include 5 more members provided if pays extra US$ 10,000 for each additional member. The royalty includes trekking fee of the team members. The team members will be granted 3 months visa.

(2) Route south pillar Everest, south west face south west face (Central Pillar) royalty up to 7 members US$ 50,000 and the may include 5 more members provided it pays extra US$ 10,000 for each additional member.

(3) The team already permitted to scale Everest will have to pay US$ 10,000 if it intends to change the ascent route. It will have to pay additional US$ 20,000 if it intends to change the ascent route to normal south east ridge route.

(4) Garbage deposit US$ 4,000 each team. Expedition team must complete all necessary administrative formalities and procedures in order to send back the garbage of the expedition team to their respective countries, after the completion of the expedition. Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation will take necessary monetary deposit from the team which will be refunded after the dispatch of garbage from Nepal.

The history of the expedition of Mount Everest is interesting, yet gruesome. Since the first expedition in the year 1924, there were numerous attempts made for the summit but the first success came as late as in the year 1953. The expeditions have till now claimed more than 400 lives. Following is the Timeline of the expeditions of Mount Everest: –

1841: Sir George Everest, Surveyor General of India from 1830 to 1843, records the location of Everest.

1852: The Great Trigonometrical Survey of India determines the Peak XV is the highest mountain in the world.

1856: Surveyor Andrew Waugh completes the first height measurement, declaring Everest to be 8840 meters high. (29,002 feet)


1865: Peak XV re-named Mt. Everest to honor Sir George Everest, the Surveyor General of India. Everest is known as Chomolungma in Tibet and Sagarmatha in Nepal.

1923: While on a lecture tour in the United States, a reporter asks Mallory why he wants to climb Everest, and Mallory immortally replies, “Because it’s there”.

1924: June 8th: George Mallory and Andrew Irvine attempt the summit using oxygen and Irvine’s modified oxygen apparatus. Noel Odell, climbing in support below, catches a glimpse of the climbers at 12:50 pm ascending a “great rock step” on the NE Ridge above. They never returned. During the 1933 expedition, Andrew Irvine’s ice ax is found on the upper slopes of the mountain at about 27,690 feet (8440 meters) and approximately 250 yards (meters) east of the First Step. Mallory’s remains were found at 26,750 feet (8150 meters), on a line vertically below the ice ax position. No evidence of a successful summit bid has been found, nor have any signs of the two climbers been found above the Second Step, the key to the route. Despite the lack of hard evidence, the debate on whether they reached the summit of Everest continues to this day.

1953: British Expedition and First Summit.

1953,May 26: First Assault by Evans and Bourdillon from the South Col using closed-circuit oxygen sets. The same day Hunt leads a party of Sherpas from the South Col. Evans and Bourdillon reach the South Summit at 1 PM at an elevation of 28,750 feet (8770 meters), but are forced to descend due to the lateness of the hour, strong winds, and lack of oxygen.

1953,May 29: Second Assault by Hillary and Tenzing using open-circuit oxygen sets. They leave Camp IX at approximately 27,900 feet (8500 meters) by 6:30 AM, and reach the S. Summit by 9 AM. After negotiating the 40 feet (12 meter) Hillary Step, they are the first to reach the summit of Everest, reaching the top at 11:30 AM. After descending to the South Col, they are met by George Lowe where Hillary states: “Well, George, we knocked the bastard off!”

1955: The height of Everest is adjusted to 29,028 feet (8848 meters).

High Altitude Warning Safety is a major consideration during all our expeditions however there are dangers involved in climbing 6000m, 7000m and 8000m peaks that cannot be avoided. The extreme altitude, weather, cold and other mountaineering hazards ensure high altitude climbing has unavoidable risks at the best of times, members of our expeditions need to be aware of these dangers and accept that they are an integral part of high altitude mountaineering.

Expedition Season There are four seasons for Expedition in Nepal: Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter. The most popular among them is the spring season and the second best season would be the Autumn.

 

Royalty and Size of Expedition Team

Realizing mountaineering as the back-bone of Nepal’s tourism industry, the Government of Nepal has made following decisions in a bid to make mountaineering royalty fee competitive amongst the neighboring countries, promote mountains lying in remote and less privileged areas, and create environment to transform the seasonal mountaineering business operational round the year and materialize the concept of ‘Nepal for all Seasons’.

 

  1. Provide discount of 50% in winter and Summer Season and 75% in Autumn Season keeping intact the Royalty Fee in Spring Season.
  2. Increase the number of climbing member in an expedition from 12 to 15.
  3. Provide 100% discount on Royalty Fee for mountains located in mid and Far Western Development Regions for 5 years.
  4. Implement Incremental Royalty Break-down System (IRDS), a system under which permit fee increases with the increase in number of climbing members, on all mountains instead of lump sum per expedition having climbing members seven or less than that.
Annex-4
(Related to Rule 4, Sub-Rule 1)
Name of Mountain: Everest (8,848m)
Climbing Route: South East Ridge (Normal Route)
No. Of Climbers Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)
Spring Autumn Summer/Winter
One Climber 25,000 12,500 6,250
Two Climbers 40,000 20,000 10,000
Three Climbers 48,000 24,000 12,000
Four Climbers 56,000 28,000 14,000
Five Climbers 60,000 30,000 15,000
Six Climbers 66,000 33,000 16,500
Seven Climbers 70,000 35,000 17,500
Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)
10,000 5,000 2,500
Name of Mountain: Everest (8,848m)
Climbing Route: All Routes except South East Ridge (Normal Route)
No. Of Climbers Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)
Spring Autumn Summer/Winter
One Climber 15,000 7,500 3,750
Two Climbers 21,000 10,500 5,250
Three Climbers 27,000 13,500 6,750
Four Climbers 33,000 16,500 8,250
Five Climbers 39,000 19,500 9,750
Six Climbers 45,000 22,500 11,250
Seven Climbers 50,000 25,000 12,500
Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)
10,000 5,000 2,500
Height of Mountain: All Mountains above 8,000 m (except Mt. Everest)
No. Of Climbers Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)
Spring Autumn Summer/Winter
One Climber 5,000 2,500 1,250
Two Climbers 6,000 3,000 1,500
Three Climbers 7,000 3,500 1,750
Four Climbers 8,000 4,000 2,000
Five Climbers 8,500 4,250 2,125
Six Climbers 9,000 4,500 2,250
Seven Climbers 10,000 5,000 2,500
Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)
1,500 1,000 500
Height of Mountain: All Mountains above 7,501m to 7,999m
No. Of Climbers Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)
Spring Autumn Summer/Winter
One Climber 2,000 1,000 500
Two Climbers 2,400 1,200 600
Three Climbers 2,800 1,400 700
Four Climbers 3,200 1,600 800
Five Climbers 3,600 1,800 900
Six Climbers 3,800 1,900 950
Seven Climbers 4,000 2,000 1,000
Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)
500 400 200
Height of Mountain: All Mountains above 7,000m to 7,500m
No. Of Climbers Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)
Spring Autumn Summer/Winter
One Climber 1,500 750 375
Two Climbers 1,800 900 450
Three Climbers 2,100 1,050 525
Four Climbers 2,400 1,200 600
Five Climbers 2,600 1,300 650
Six Climbers 2,800 1,400 700
Seven Climbers 3,000 1,500 750
Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)
400 250 150
Height of Mountain: All Mountains above 6,501m to 6,999m (Except Mt. Amadablam)
No. Of Climbers Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)
Spring Autumn Summer/Winter
One Climber 1,000 500 225
Two Climbers 1,200 600 300
Three Climbers 1,400 700 350
Four Climbers 1,600 800 400
Five Climbers 1,800 900 450
Six Climbers 1,900 950 475
Seven Climbers 2,000 1,000 500
Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)
300 200 100
Name of Mountain: Amadablam (6812m)
No. Of Climbers Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)
Spring Autumn Summer/Winter
One Climber 1,000 1,000 500
Two Climbers 1,200 1,200 600
Three Climbers 1,400 1,400 700
Four Climbers 1,600 1,600 800
Five Climbers 1,800 1,800 900
Six Climbers 1,900 1,900 550
Seven Climbers 2,000 2,000 1000
Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)
300 300 200
Height of Mountain: 6,500 or Below
No. Of Climbers Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $)
Spring Autumn Summer/Winter
One Climber 400 200 100
Two Climbers 500 250 125
Three Climbers 600 300 150
Four Climbers 700 350 175
Five Climbers 800 400 200
Six Climbers 900 450 225
Seven Climbers 1000 500 250
Per Extra Climber
(One Expedition Team has 15 members in maximum)
200 100 50