This climb, of
what is claimed to be the "classic" 7,000 meter
peak in Nepal, includes all imaginable
team-services, leadership, sherpas, cooks and
cuisine, shared-support, and group equipment.
Pumori is a spectacular mountain, not least of
all because it offers constant views of Mt
Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. It was from here
that Eric Shipton helped to choose the first
ascent route on Mt Everest, which Tenzing and
Hillary climbed in 1953. According to David
Padwa, the peak was named by Mallory during the
first Everest Reconnaissance. He wanted to name
a peak after his young daughter. In the Sherpa
and Tibetan languages, "Pumo" means girl , and "Ri"
means mountain. We made four ascents of this
mountain in 1996, 2003, 2004, and 2005, placing
4, 7, 8, and 5 members on the summit, with many
sherpas. The trek to basecamp travels the
beautiful and famous Khumbu valley. For our
full-service members, the cost of this
expedition includes one of the most beautiful
treks in the world. For more information and
photos, please visit our Pumori trek site:
Pumori Trek. Before and after the climb, we
visit and tour Nepal’s cultural center:
Kathmandu. Pumori is unusual in that it is a
high summit, a spectacularly beautiful mountain
located directly across from Mt Everest, with a
very easily approached and moderate route (not
as technical as Ama Dablam, and easier than any
other 7000 metre peak in Nepal), which should
allow for a fairly reliable chance at reaching
the top for everyone in the team.
We have chosen what has traditionally been the
best season to climb the mountain, the spring,
or "pre-monsoon", when snow fall and bad weather
is at a minimum, and the climbing route is in
very good and stable condition. Pumori (or Pumo
Ri) is a mountain in the Himalaya on the
Nepal-Tibet border. Pumori lies just eight
kilometres west of Mount Everest. Pumori, which
means "Ummarried Daughter" in the Sherpa
dialect, was named by George Mallory. Climbers
sometimes refer to Pumori as "Everest's
Daughter".
Pumori is a popular climbing peak and the
easiest route is graded class 3, although with
avalanche danger. Pumori was first climbed in
1962 by Gerhard Lenser of a German-Swiss
expedition.Two Czechs (Leopald Sulovsky and
Michalec Zeduak) climbed a new route on the
South face in the spring of 1996 (Joe Simpson,
1997, Dark Shadows falling).An outlier of Pumori
is Kala Patthar (5,545m/18,192'), which appears
as a big brown bump below the impressive south
face of Pumori. Many trekkers going to see Mt.
Everest up close will attempt to climb to the
top of Kala Patthar. The views from almost
anywhere on Kala Patther of Everest, Lhotse and
Nuptse are truly spectacular on a sunny day.
Mount Pumori Ascend:
Camp 1: After a 3 hrs walk you will reach camp 1
or advance base camp 5700m. After that you will
have to walk the distance of 500m with the
Elevation of 40 to 65 degrees slopes. Mount
Pumori has many rocks and mixed climb traverse,
steep and expose to wind narrow ridges, some ice
walls, and one tunnel climb. Some times you may
need fixed ropes also.
Camp 2: It starts at 6200m. It is located on a
narrow ridge; so there is no fear of avalanches.
The next 400m, Is an ice climb with 35-65
degrees, more 5m, Is the Ice walls, many
crevasses, and the bigger avalanche danger from
big seracs hanging from the shoulder of 6500m.
Now camp 3: It is too windy. At the height of
6850m, from where you can see Tibetan plateau;
and you need rope here because of many crevasses
and ice walls way to summit. After that there
are two climbing ranges; one from Tibet side and
other is from Nepal side. Between these 2 sides
the Nepal side is easier to Mount Pumori Summit.
After this walk, the Summit is easy to reach on
it's vertex Pumori 7145m.
Pumori Expedition
Itinerary.
Day 01: Arrival
Kathmandu & transfer to Hotel
Day 02: Kathmandu- Prepare Expedition
Day 03: Briefing expedition in Ministry of
tourism
Day 04: Flight to Lukla & trek to Phakding lodge
Day 05: Phakding to Namche lodge
Day 06: Namche rest for acclimatization lodge
Day 07: Namche - Thyanboche lodge
Day 08: Thyangboche - Pheriche lodge
Day 09: Pheriche - Lobuche lodge
Day 10: Lobuche - Pumori Base Camp - Camping Day 11-29 Climbing Period for Pumori 7145m.
Day 30: Pumori BC - Pangboche -Lodge
Day 31: Pangboche - Namche -Lodge
Day 32: Namche - Lukla - Lodge
Day 33: Fly Lukla - Kathmandu & transfer hotel
Day 34: Kathmandu
Day 35: final departures
Cost Includes:
5 Nights
accomodation in Kathmandu with bed & Breakfast
Permit fee of Pumori 7145m.Expedition
Food for Trekking and Expedition period for
Lhotse
Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Cook helper
Porters or Yak porter Lukla to Base camp & Base
camp to Lukla
Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu flights with Cargo
50 KG Per member
Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison
officer, expedition crew
Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew.
1 tent for 1 person for Expedition north face
brand
Mat, dining tent, Toilet tent, Mess tent, Store
tent, Table and chairs trekking for the
expedition
Local transportation in Kathmandu
(Airport-hotel-airport)
Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator
Satellite phone (Pay calls)
Fare Well dinner.
Cost Exclude:
PERSONAL equipment
for climbing & trekking
Personal & medical Insurance of expedition
Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp
Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter incase
needed
Walki Takie permit & Satellite phone permit
Oxygen & Mask -regulator
Personal expenses
Bar Bills & beverage
Garbage Deposit USD 2000.00 (Sharing of the
total person) and Deposit fee will be not
refunded if the clients (climber) don’t take
back their garbage.
If have hired climbing Sherpa guide until
reaching to the TOP of the mountain, the hirer
should pay USD 500.00 climbing bonus minimum
only in case the climbing is succeeded with
Sherpa.
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