Mount Makalu is
known as the fifth highest mountain peak in the
world in the Himalayas,
Coordinates: 27°53′21″N, 87°05′19″E . an
isolated peak, located just 14 miles east of
Mount Everest. Makalu's size alone is
impressive, but its pyramid like structure with
four sharp ridges, makes this mountain all the
more spectacular. Makalu has proved to be a
challenging climb, as only five of its first
sixteen attempts were successful. Previously, it
had been admired and studied by several Everest
parties, but like so many other mountain giants
in the Khumbu region, it was not attempted until
the summit of Everest had been attained in 1954.
Chomo Lonzo (25,650 ft.) is a subsidiary peak of
Makalu, rising just north of the higher summit,
separated by a narrow saddle. The first attempt
on Makalu was made by an American team led by
William Siri in the spring of 1954. The
expedition was composed of members of the Sierra
Club including Allen Steck, and was called the
California Himalayan Expedition to Makalu. This
was the first American mountaineering expedition
to the Himalaya.
Makalu West
Face
It is very adventurous route to climb because it
is a little bit dangerous as well. The 5
attempts were made before climbing this Mount
Makalu Mountain ; then only it was succeeded in
the final.
The West Face was successfully summit in 1997.
The Russian expedition had taken the route of
this West Face of mount Makalu, leaded by Sergey
Efimov and climbed the top on 21st of May via
the most difficult route. The last part of the
route had gone on Parago ridge. Alexei Bolotov,
Yuri Ermachek, Dmitri Pavlenko, Igor Bugachevski
and Nikolai Jiline had climbed on the top of
mount Makalu at this time For this ascent they
were awarded the "Gold ice-axe".
The routes are of 4 parts:
The bottom part starts from the base of the West
Face at 5,800 meters and climbs to the hanging
ice-fall at 6,100 meters to the right part of
the ice-fall. The second part extends from the
plateau above the ice-fall along 35 to 45 degree
elevation's rock up to the 6,500 meters high.
The next section is an ice-rock wall, 50 to 55
degrees steep & that extends to 7,400 meters
height. The last final section begins 70 to 75
degree elevation's rock pillar, which leads to
the west ridge at 8,000 meters height till to
the top of the summit.
Ropes are typically fixed from 5800m to 6100m
and from 6500 m to 7500m. Camps established by
the Russian Team were at the following
locations.
The French Route on the West Pillar is an
aesthetically stunning line that has been seldom
attempted. It is an exceedingly difficult, a
very steep pillar that was first successfully
ascended in 1971. The crux of the line comes at
approximately 7,600m in the area of the Seignior
Wall.
The first US team to summit was in 1980, they
summit via this West Pillar Route . The team was
made up of Jim States , John Roskelley, Kim Momb
and Chris Kopczynski. They summit 2 members of
the team and put 2 members within 150 feet. They
summit without the use of oxygen or Sherpa
support.
The Makalu region
is an absolutely amazing still very untouched
area in the northwestern corner of the
Sankhuwasabha district. To the west, it is
bordered by the Everest region, to the north by
Tibet, to the east by the Arun river and to the
south by the Sabha river. It just so happens
that this very pristine area was dedicated into
a national park and conservation area in the
early 1990's. The park is still at its beginning
stages. Though struggling to make its mark, it
has done fairly well. Unlike the
Annapurna
Conservation Area Project (ACAP), the
Makalu
Barun Conservation Project (MBCP) is set up a
little differently. It is definitely heading
down its own unique path. MBCP is trying, Nepal
Visitors Travel Network feel, to develop the
area at a rate which is not degrading to any of
the systems going on within the park. Tourism
seems to be very low on its agenda. The Park
hopes to put off that burden as long as possible
knowing that it will affect the area drastically
if promoted without mediation and direction. But
the district of Sankhuwasabha is huge and the
park makes up about only one-third of the total
area. The region is very close to the Everest
region, but drastically different in many ways.
Most of the people in this district live in the
lower hills with the highest concentrations in
the most southern third of the district. A
blanket statement could be made that most people
live fairly close to the Arun river. The major
castes in this area include Gurung, Rai, Tamang,
Chetri, Brahmin, Limbu, and Sherpa (Bota),
almost numerically in that order.
Makalu Expedition
Itinerary.
Day 01: Arrival
Kathmand & Trasfer to hotel
Day 02: prepare for expedition
Day 03: Briefing in Ministry of tourism
Day 04: Fly to Tumlingtar - camping
Day 05: Tumlingtar - Kuwapani
Day 06: Kuwapani - Chichila
Day 07: Chichila - Num
Day 08: Num- Seduwa
Day 09: Seduwa - Tashigaun
Day 10: Tashigaun - Khongma La (Danda)
Day 11: Khongmadanda - Mumfuk
Day 12: Mumfuk -Yangle Kharak
Day 13: Yangle Khark -Merak
Day 14: Merak -Sersung (half day rest) for
acclimatize
Day 15: Sersung - Makalu Base camp Day 16-47:
Climbing Period for Makalu Expedition 8463m.
Day 48: Makalu BC - Mumbuck
Day 49: Mumbuck - Khongma La (Danda)
Day 50: Khongma La - Seduwa
Day 51: Seduwa - Chichila
Day 52: Chichila - Tumlingtar
Day 53: Tumlingtar - Kathmandu by flight
Day 54: Kathmandu
Day 55: Final Departure
Cost Includes:
- All ground
transfers as per our itinerary.
- Five star standard Hotel in Kathmandu (Bed and
breakfast basis inclusive of all govt. Tax and
VAT.)
- Guided sightseeing around world heritage sites
of Kathmandu. (Includes all applicable entrance
fees.)
- Welcome Dinner with Live Nepalese Program
- All Custom Clearance Fees for your gears.
- Mount Makalu Expedition Royalty (USD 10,000.00
for the team upto 7 members).
- Liaison Officer Fee (USD 1500.00 Including his
all expenses, Airfares, foods, insurance and
wages).
- Makalu National Park Permit Fees. (Included all other entrance
fees/permits wherever necessary.)
- Two vastly experienced Climbing Sherpa with
their equipments and allowance. (they will
continue to the summit for your support).
- Airfare: Kathmandu - Tumlingtar -Kathmandu.
- Transportation of all of your gears and our
equipments, foods to the Makalu High Base Camp
(5600m).
- Full Logistic support for the Expedition. All
the Camping & Kitchen Equipments
- Two Trekking Sherpa, One Trekking Sirdar, One
High Altitude Cook, Two Kitchen Helpers, High
altitude Porters and their daily wages. (Also
including their insurance with all necessary
lodging - fooding - clothing arrangements.)
- Three times meal a day till reaching Base Camp
and after returning from Base Camp, prepared by
our very professional kitchen crew.(Including
the fuel).
- Medical treatment (if necessary) for our crew.
- Cargo flight (Kathmandu - Tumlingtar - Kathmandu) for your equipments.
Cost Exclude:
PERSONAL equipment
for climbing & trekking
Personal & medical Insurance of expedition
Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter incase
needed
Walki Takie permit & Satellite phone permit
Oxygen & Mask -regulator
Personal expenses
Bar Bills & beverage
Garbage Deposit USD 2000.00 (Sharing of the
total person) and Deposit fee will be not
refunded if the clients (climber) don’t take
back their garbage.
If have hired climbing Sherpa guide until
reaching to the TOP of the mountain, the hirer
should pay USD 1500.00 climbing bonus minimum
only in case the climbing is succeeded with Sherpa.
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